To get you briefed on the basics and headed in the right direction, let’s start with some commonly asked questions about wheel sizes and aftermarket wheels.
What is wheel (rim) width?
Imagine a wheel separated from the vehicle and positioned upright as normal (ready to roll). As you look down at the wheel, the width is the measurement from left to right between the wheel edges, also called the wheel lips.
Wheel width is measured in inches, and typically in ½” increments. Sometimes the four stock wheels and tires on a vehicle are the same width. This is called a “square” setup. A “staggered” setup is a case in which the wheel and tire widths at the front and rear axles are different. For more information see Staggered vs. square tire and wheel setups.
How wide or narrow should your new wheels be?
Wheel width on a new set of wheels should be primarily determined by two considerations: Clearance and purpose.
What do we mean by “clearance?”
Within each wheel well is spacing between the wheel and tire and the surrounding vehicle components. This amount of space varies from vehicle to vehicle. Certain trucks have the wheel well space to accommodate a much wider wheel than stock, whereas other vehicles are able to fit only a slightly wider wheel than stock (if at all) without modification in the wheel well area. The space between your stock wheels and tires, and all surrounding vehicle components is called clearance.
Regardless of whether your purpose in fitting new wheels is advanced by a wider set of wheels, you are first and foremost limited by the available clearance.
To determine clearance, an automotive professional will need to measure and evaluate the space between your stock wheels and tires and all surrounding components. Clearance should be evaluated at both the front and rear axles, and while the suspension is loaded with the vehicle weight. (Unloaded suspension changes the geometry, and could lead to inaccurate clearance measurements.) Be sure to also take clearance measurements in the front wheel wells while moving the steering wheel from lock to lock.
If you carry heavy loads or haul a trailer, and/or drive over rough roads, be sure to account for the added vehicle weight, a compressed suspension system, and an associated loss of clearance.
A safe clearance between the wheels and tires and all vehicle components in the wheel wells should always be maintained. If the wheel and tire setup is too wide, serious vehicle damage and compromised vehicle safety can result.
Clearance measurements and maximum wheel width recommendations are best handled by automotive professionals.
The other important consideration when deciding on wheel width is “purpose.”
If your purpose in fitting a new set of wheels is to enhance or change the look of your ride, then sticking with the OE wheel width(s) front and back is the best route. The stock wheel widths were established after considerable engineering and vehicle testing, and so if there’s no good performance reason to alter wheel width, well then, there’s just no good reason.
If specific performance is the goal, then it may be that going with a wider or narrower wheel than stock will help you better accomplish those goals.
For example, winter tire and wheel setups are conventionally narrower than stock wheels and tires. The narrower footprint allows the wheels and tires to better “slice” through wintry precipitation.
On the other hand, off-road performance is typically enhanced by a wider wheel and tire footprint. A wider setup allows for more tire contact patch, and more traction in various off-road conditions.
The same is true of high performance driving – the maximum grip level of performance cars can be enhanced with a wider wheel and tire setup. At Track Days and high performance driving events, wider wheels and tires are the norm.
And so a decision on wheel width comes down to clearance and purpose. Both variables have to be carefully considered.
How to tell if rims will fit my tires?
This is typically a question for drivers who are looking to upgrade the look of their wheels, but keep their stock tires and not alter vehicle performance.
As previously suggested, when pursuing a wheel upgrade for cosmetic purposes, the best (and safest) route is to maintain the stock wheel specifications – this means maintaining both wheel width and diameter.
If these wheel specifications are kept consistent, then your stock (OE) tires will fit the new rims equally well.
If you change rim width or diameter, e.g. moving from an 18″ wheel to a 19″ wheel diameter, then your stock tires will no longer fit the rims.
How do I tell wheel size?
If you’re looking to learn the diameter of your stock vehicle wheels – sometimes thought of as wheel height, or how tall the wheel is – the easiest method is to review your tire size information.
The final number in your tire size (before the separate load index and speed rating) denotes both tire and wheel size. In the diagram just below, the size is 17 which translates to 17″. This tire is fitted to a 17″ wheel.
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/wheel-diamter.jpg?resize=300%2C210&ssl=1)
Where to find your tire’s diameter
Determining wheel width is a bit trickier. The tire section width, which is the first number in the tire size sequence and expressed in millimeters (“225” in the diagram above), hints at the wheel width, but does not give a certain or conclusive answer. This is because any given wheel width can accommodate more than one tire width. A 225 millimeter section width tire, for example, can be fitted to an 8″ or 8.5″ wide wheel.
To determine wheel width and the full specification details of your stock wheels, the dealership service department is often a good resource. Then with the full stock wheel specification in hand you can look for equivalents or close matches.
What is wheel diameter?
Wheel diameter is perhaps most easily thought of as the measurement from top to bottom, or across the face of the wheel.
Tire size details are a clear indication of wheel diameter as detailed above.
If wheels are not fitted with tires, a standard measurement with a tape measure will tell you what you need to know. Exclude the outer wheel lips that hold the tire in place as a part of the diameter measurement. The diameter measurement occurs across the front face of the wheel, excluding the lips/edges.
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What is the diameter of a wheel?
Wheel size has been both popularized and simplified in modern pop culture. In music or elsewhere you might have heard wheels referred to as “20s,” “22s,” “Dubs,”etc.
These are references to the diameter of the wheel. Because the diameter (face) of the wheel is most influential on the look and profile, that’s what gets the attention.
In reality, the diameter is just one of the important wheel specifications and measurements, along with wheel width, offset, and backspacing.
To get a proper wheel fitment for your vehicle you’ll definitely need to consider more than just wheel diameter, no matter how cool simply having “20s” may be.
What is wheel offset?
So far we’ve touched on exterior wheel measurements and clearance factors, but that’s only part of the equation. What occurs in the space inside of your wheel barrels once they’re mounted is equally important.
Wheel offset is a measurement from the rear (inside) the wheel mounting face to the center of the wheel. Wheel offset adjusts the wheel either inward or outward once mounted. Similar to the diameter and width, offset directly affects vehicle component clearance.
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/WheelWidth-2.jpg?resize=958%2C479&ssl=1)
wheel “offset”
What is wheel backspacing?
Wheel backspacing is essentially an extension of the wheel offset measurement. Instead of to the centerline of the wheel, the backspacing measurement occurs from the rear of the mounting face to the back (inside edge) of the wheel lip.
Both wheel backspacing and offset influence the spacing to the components inside of the wheel well, especially the brake calipers, as well as various suspension components. Like clearance measurements for wheel diameter and width, confirming sufficient clearance to these vehicle components is vital to ensure proper vehicle performance and safety.
If in doubt, or don’t want to take any risk, selecting a wheel that is an OE equivalent in terms of diameter, width, offset, and backspacing measurements is safest.
If you’re still unsure which bolt pattern you need, give us a call and we will help you figure it out 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
(source: tirebuyer.com)
WHEEL FINISHES EXPLAINED
Custom wheels and rims boast an astonishing array of designs, catering to every conceivable style or performance preference you might have. With an extensive selection of metal finishes, spoke patterns, colors, polishes, and sizes, the options seem limitless, allowing you to find the perfect match for your unique taste and driving requirements.
To kickstart the process of refining your options, it’s essential to grasp the various types of wheel finishes and how they are achieved to complement your preferred color and finish, while also considering their maintenance needs. Among the six most prevalent types, each holds distinctive characteristics that will help guide your decision.
Here are five options to consider:
POLISHED:
Raw aluminum wheels can be hand-polished with a buffer so the surface is completely smooth, then clear coated for a rich shine. Wheels can also be machine-polished to a near-mirror shine with no top coat applied. These are popular finishes for street rod and car enthusiasts who like to show off their ride.
These finishes offer some advantages over chrome-plated wheels since they don’t add weight to the wheel, which could improve fuel efficiency and handling. Polished wheels can also easily be repolished to restore their like-new condition if they lose their luster over time.
Care: If they have no protective top coating, these wheels require regular cleaning, polishing and waxing to keep them from oxidation and pitting.
POWDERCOATED:
A dry paint and heat technique is used for a durable, attractive wheel that resists rust, heat, chips and scratches. Fine ground particles of color and resin are electrically charged and sprayed onto the surface. Then the wheel is heated in a curing oven which bakes on the finish.
There are loads of color choices for powder-coated wheels. However, this finish is “one and done.” Recoating in a new color later isn’t recommended.
Care: Use soap and water or a mild, non-acidic wheel cleaner and a microfiber or terry cloth. Never use tarnish or rust removal products or bleach. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
TWO-TONE:
This is a great option for enhancing or highlighting a specific color combination on your ride. The center of the wheel can be one color and the out ring or lip can be a different color. This is a very unique look and will set you apart from the crowd.
Care: Use soap and water or a mild, non-acidic wheel cleaner and a microfiber or terry cloth. Never use tarnish or rust removal products or bleach. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
PAINTED/MACHINED:
This is another unique look to add an additional level of style to your vehicle. On the example shown above the wheel is powdercoated Gloss Black and the edges are Machined for a nice contrasting look.
Care: Use soap and water or a mild, non-acidic wheel cleaner and a microfiber or terry cloth. Never use tarnish or rust removal products or bleach. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
CHROME:
Presenting the timeless and captivating mirror-reflective wheel style – Chrome plating. Renowned for its luxurious and dazzling appearance, chrome plating remains the traditional choice for drivers seeking that captivating “bling” look for their prized rides. During the manufacturing process, wheels undergo multiple layers of copper, nickel, and chromium coatings, resulting in a highly reflective surface akin to a radiant mirror. This finish boasts the brightest and most eye-catching allure among all wheel finishes, adding an unmatched level of showmanship to any vehicle.
Care: Maintenance: To keep your chrome wheels looking their best, regular cleaning is essential. Use mild soap and water, along with soft rags, avoiding abrasive materials like steel wool, as they can cause scratches on the finish. For ongoing upkeep, employ Chrome Polish or Instant Detailer to preserve the gleaming shine.
In regions with wintry conditions and the use of deicers like salt and magnesium chloride, it’s crucial to clean your chrome wheels frequently. This precautionary measure helps prevent finish issues such as pitting and corrosion, which can result from prolonged exposure to harsh substances.
Additionally, make it a habit to clean off brake dust on a regular basis. Doing so will safeguard the finish and prevent potential damage, ensuring your chrome wheels continue to exude their impeccable allure.
WHEEL SHINE OPTIONS
When it comes to choosing the perfect wheel for your vehicle, the possibilities seem endless. You’ll encounter a myriad of options, including various finishes, colors, diameters, and widths. To make the best decision, consider the purpose of your vehicle—whether it’s for offroading, cruising, track days, car shows, or any other specific use.
Each type of wheel serves different needs, so keeping your vehicle’s intended purpose in mind is crucial when searching for the ideal combination to complement your ride. By aligning your requirements with the right set of wheels, you can ensure an enhanced driving experience and an aesthetically pleasing appearance tailored to your preferences.
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/FAQ-image-chevelle.png?resize=1140%2C485&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/FAQ-image-chevelle.png?resize=1140%2C485&ssl=1)
Congratulations, you have a new set of Awesome Wheels on your car, truck or SUV. You want them to look just as good a year from now as they do today. The big question now is “How do I properly clean my new wheels?”.
First, you will want to identify the finish of your wheels; gloss paint, matte paint, chrome plating, clear coat, color tinted, polished or a combination of multiple finishes.
Next, follow these basic steps that will apply to all finishes:
- The first thing to consider is the temperature of your wheels. After you have been driving, allow your wheels to cool down before you clean them. Preferably, in the shade or out of direct sunlight will work best. Hot wheels tend to spot or stain just like your vehicle’s paint.
- Prepare a good sized bucket of mildly warm water and mild dish soap or Adam’s Eco Wheel Cleaner in order to wash your wheels. You want to remove as much dirt and brake dust as you can before you polish or wipe them with any significant amount of pressure. Dirt and brake dust will scratch your wheel’s finish if it is not gently removed first.
- Keeping your wheels wet, use a super soft or microfiber cloth like Adam’s Microfiber Wheel Wash Mitt to wash your new wheels .
- Clean your wheels frequently and thoroughly and dry them when you are done with a soft towel or Adam’s Borderless Grey Microfiber Towel.
Keep in mind that brake dust is damaging to all finishes. However, chrome finishes are the most easily scratched by the metallic dust from brake pads.
Your Awesome Wheels will keep looking as new as the day you bought them by following these simple steps.
Just to be clear, Koyote Kustom Wheels are fans of Adam’s polishes.
What Are Hub-Centric Rings?
Hub-centric rings, or hub rings, are typically made of plastic or metal and help ensure that your aftermarket wheels fit your vehicle, providing the smoothest ride possible.
You may have heard about hub-centric or lug-centric wheels.To understand what hub-centric rings are, you’ll need to learn a few key words.
Glossary of Terms:
Vehicle Hub: Sometimes called a hub pilot, it refers to the center of your vehicle’s axle on which the wheel rotates.
Center Bore: The hole in the center of the wheel that attaches directly to the hub of the vehicle.
Hub-Centric Wheels: Wheels that have a center bore that matches the size of the vehicle’s hub.
Lug-Centric Wheels: Wheels that have a larger center bore than the vehicle’s hub.
WHAT DO HUB-CENTRIC RINGS DO?
Most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric, which means the center bore of the wheel is larger than the hub pilot of the vehicle. Hub-centric rings fill the gap between the wheel’s center bore and the vehicle hub for vehicles that are lug-centric. This aligns and centers the tire and wheel assembly on the vehicle, helping to minimize vibration.
Note: Hub-centric rings don’t carry any load and are not required for a secure installation..
DO I NEED HUB-CENTRIC RINGS?
If you have OE wheels (the wheels that came with your vehicle), you don’t need hub-centric rings. OE wheels are designed to fit your vehicle exactly, so hub rings are unnecessary.
On the other hand, if you’re installing aftermarket wheels, you can use wheel centering rings to ensure a perfect bond and minimize the chance of higher speed vibrations. This is not required, however.
If you’re not sure whether or not you need hub rings, feel free to give us a call or schedule an appointment. We can determine if your wheels will accept a hub-centric ring and if you even need one at all.
If you have any questions, fee free to give us a call and we will happy to help 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
ATV/UTV TIRE SIZING EXPLAINED
Installing the right sized tires is important for ATV/UTV performance and handling. You need to make sure you’re adding the correct size when replacing your original equipment (OE) tires.
HOW TO READ ATV/UTV TIRE SIZES
Although ATV and UTV tires look similar in size to car tires, they are not quite the same.
For example, a common size may be:
25/10.00D12
This breaks down to:
- 25 = the overall height of the tire in inches at its proper operating air pressure
- 10.00 = the width of the tire in inches when inflated to the proper operating air pressure
- D = the tire’s construction type
- 12 = the wheel size
Truck or car tires likely wouldn’t fit on a UTV or ATV without serious modifications. This Is because the bolt pattern on car wheels and ATV/UTV wheels is different and would require expensive modifications to make them fit each other. Truck tires would also be too large to fit. Car tires are also almost exclusively radial construction, while ATV and UTV tires can be either radial or bias ply construction. UTV or ATV tires are also designed for rough, off road performance not suitable to most car tire designs.
ATV/UTV tires have either a bias ply or a radial construction. They are designated by letters in the tire size. D, as in this example above, is a bias ply construction and R is a radial construction.
CHANGING YOUR ATV/UTV TIRES
When replacing the original equipment (OE) tires, it’s quite common to opt for larger tire sizes. This choice offers various benefits, including increased ground clearance and a more assertive look for your vehicle. However, it is crucial to ensure adequate spacing is maintained between the tires, suspension, and fenders to avoid any potential issues.
If you are not the original owner of the vehicle, it’s possible that the previous owner might have made modifications to the tire size. Before deciding to increase the tire size, it’s essential to be aware of the original equipment (OE) tire size. This consideration is vital because an increase in tire size leads to a larger diameter or added weight, potentially causing mechanical problems. If you do choose to go for a larger size, we strongly advise limiting the increase to one inch in height or width. Larger increases would necessitate significant adjustments to the suspension, and such modifications can significantly alter the handling and overall performance of your vehicle.
KoyoteKustomWheels.com sells wheels for ATV’s, UTV’s, Trailers and Golf Carts. You can find them here.
Hub-Centric vs. Lug-Centric Wheels
Shopping for a new set of aftermarket wheels? You’ve probably come across a lot of technical info about the wheel sizes and bolt pattern and wheel construction. But what about the phrases hub-centric wheels or lug-centric wheels?
These phrases refer to how a wheel is centered on your vehicle, but what do they mean for you?
HUB-CENTRIC WHEELS
Hub-centric wheels are designed for the center bore of the wheel to be a perfect match to the vehicle’s hub, sometimes called a hub pilot. This allows the wheel and tire assembly to be centered on the hub, which is the most accurate way to install your wheels.
Most original equipment (OE) wheels are hub-centric because they’re designed by manufacturers specifically for their exact vehicle.
Following the red lines in the diagram to the right, you can see that the wheel’s center bore is exactly the same size as the vehicle’s hub.
LUG-CENTRIC WHEELS
As opposed to hub-centric wheels, lug-centric wheels are centered on the vehicle using the lug holes. Most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric because this allows the manufacturer to make the wheel with a larger hub bore, so the wheel can fit a wider array of vehicles.
As indicated by the dotted red lines in the diagram, the wheel’s center bore is slightly larger than the vehicle hub.
While you can fit a larger hub bore on a smaller hub, you can’t fit a smaller hub bore on a larger hub. Be sure you have the correct hub bore size before installing your rims!
While lug-centric wheels are centered around the lug nuts rather than the hub bore, they can be safely installed without worry. But if you prefer the ride of a hub-centric wheel, you can simply install your lug-centric wheels with a hub ring!
HUB-CENTRIC RINGS
As you can see in the diagram, the yellow ring fits in the bore of the wheel and connects directly with the vehicle hub
Now that you know everything about hub-centric wheels, lug-centric wheels and hub rings, you’re all set to hunt down a new set of rims! Check out our huge inventory of aftermarket wheels!
If you have any questions, fee free to give us a call and we will happy to help 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
What do bigger wheels do for a car?
You mean, other than enhance the cool factor?
Bigger aftermarket wheels are perhaps most often fitted to vehicles for cosmetic purposes. They can have a profound influence on the look and presence of a vehicle.
Bigger wheels and the accompanying bigger tires can have a favorable influence on certain vehicle performance purposes like off-roading.
For on-road purposes, fitting a larger wheel generally means decreasing the tire sidewall and increasing tire width. A decrease (shortening) of tire sidewall can improve vehicle responsiveness, handling, and feel, while expanding tire width can improve all-around grip under acceleration, braking, and cornering.
Looking to get started on a search for aftermarket wheels for your vehicle? Check out our collection of wheels.
LUG NUTS VS LUG AN IN-DEPTH LOOK
WHAT ARE TIRE LUG NUTS
Among the plethora of vehicle accessories available, lug nuts stand out as one of the most vital components. But what exactly are lug nuts or lug bolts?
In essence, lug nuts serve as vital hardware, responsible for firmly fastening your wheel and tire assembly to your vehicle. The right lug nut choice guarantees a safe and secure installation, despite their small size, they play a crucial role in ensuring your wheels are in place effectively.
Lug nuts come in various sizes and thread pitches, but one of the most critical distinctions lies in the type of lug nut seat—the contact point where the lug nut interfaces with the wheel. This lug nut seat plays a pivotal role in securing the wheel properly and varies depending on the specific type of lug nut used.
Ensuring a perfect match between the lug nut seat and the wheel lug seat is of utmost importance. Failure to achieve this compatibility may result in the lug nuts or lug bolts being unable to securely fasten your tire and wheel assembly to your vehicle, potentially leading to safety risks.
Let’s take a look at the different type of lug nuts:
During the installation of lug bolts, it is essential to use the appropriate length for your specific vehicle. If the lug bolts are too long, they can create movement problems. After fitting the lug bolts, lift the wheel off the ground and rotate it to ensure smooth, unimpeded 360-degree motion. This step helps verify that the lug bolts are properly installed and functioning correctly.
LUG NUT SIZES
To safely install your wheels, it’s important that the lug nut size matches your vehicle’s requirements. If your lug nuts or lug bolts don’t match your vehicle’s thread pitch, they won’t work on your ride.
Lug nut sizes are given in two numbers. The first number is the diameter of the stud. The second number is the thread pitch. On metric studs, the thread pitch is the distance in milimeters between each thread. On standard lug nuts, the thread pitch is the number of threads per inch.
For example, a 12mmx1.25 lug nut has a 12mm diameter, and a thread pitch of 1.25mm.
Here are the other most common lug nut sizes:
- 10mm X 1.25
- 12mm X 1.25
- 12mm X 1.50
- 12mm X 1.75
- 14mm X 1.25
- 14mm X 1.5
- 14mm X 2.0
- 7/16″ X 20
- 1/2″ X 20
- 9/16″ X 18
Note: Most lug nuts are right-hand threaded, meaning they follow the “righty tighty, lefty loosey” rule. Left-hand threaded lug nuts, or lug nuts that tighten by rotating to the left, are not very common. They’re typically marked with an “L” or “LHT” on the side of the lug nut.
WHAT LUG NUTS DO I NEED FOR AFTERMARKET WHEELS?
If you want to give your ride a style upgrade that also packs a performance punch, there’s nothing better than a new set of aftermarket wheels.
When swapping out your original equipment (OE) wheels with aftermarket ones, it becomes crucial to ensure a proper fit of the lug nuts. Typically, OE lug nuts are not compatible with aftermarket wheels. To avoid any issues, it is advisable to invest in a wheel installation kit, which provides lug nuts specifically designed to match your new wheels. This way, you can ensure a seamless and secure installation process for your upgraded wheels.
WHAT IS LUG NUT THREAD ENGAGEMENT?
Another important consideration when replacing or installing lug nuts? Lug nut thread engagement.
Thread engagement refers to how much contact your lug nut has with the stud, or how many complete turns before it’s tight. For your safety, proper thread engagement must be met.
If regular lug nuts can’t make proper thread engagement, you might need extended thread (ET) lug nuts. When installing ET lug nuts, make sure the lug holes in the wheel are wide enough to accommodate the extended thread area.
WHAT IS LUG NUT TORQUE?
Lug nut torque is the amount of force used to tighten your lug nuts. Every vehicle comes with its specific torque requirements. Measured in foot pounds (ft-lbs), lug nut torque is critical when installing your lug nuts because it ensures a safe, secure fit.
If overtightened, both the lug nut and the stud can be fatigued, possibly leading to failure. If under-torqued, the lug nuts may not be securely installed.
Want to learn more about the proper lug nut torque settings for your vehicle? Check out our wheel torque section in FAQ.
WHY IS THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF LUG NUTS IMPORTANT?
When it comes to installing or replacing your lug nuts, you might find yourself wondering, why is the outside diameter of a lug nut important?
That’s a great question, and the answer is, it’s important because the shape and size of the lug head determines which tool you need to successfully install your lug nuts!
Most lug nuts have a hex nut shape that will fit regular sockets you can find in most toolsets. Others have a spline-like shape that requires a special key. And many, including OE and aftermarket lug nuts, use a locking lug, which requires a serial-numbered lug key for installation or removal.
Additionally, some aftermarket wheels use a very small diameter lug nut that may require an adapter. This adapter might not be the same size as the OE lug head diameter.
Whatever lug nuts you have on your vehicle, make sure you’ve got the hardware you need to successfully install or remove your lug nuts.
REPLACING OE LUG NUTS
One question we encounter often is, “When do I need to replace my OE lug nuts?” The truth is, it can vary quite a bit. Many OE lug nuts will last many years without ever needing to be replaced. Others may not be so reliable.
Some OE lug nuts have a tin cap. This cap may look nice, but it can come loose or begin to swell and warp over time. While these issues might not cause your lug nuts to detach, they can become a problem when you need to remove your wheels.
If the cap swells, it can get too big for your lug wrench to fit over it. If the cap falls off completely, the lug nut will be slightly smaller than the lug wrench, causing the lug wrench to slip and strip out the lug nut. In either case, it can be difficult, if not impossible, to remove your lug nuts without special tools.
Here are some visuals to help illustrate these issues:
Swollen Cap:
Cap Missing:
If your lug nuts have either of these issues, we recommend replacing them with aftermarket lug nuts as soon as possible.
Our aftermarket lug nuts are built with a solid, one-piece construction. They don’t have caps and are made of the strongest grade materials, so you can count on them to keep their shape and keep your wheels securely in place.
Aftermarket Lug Nut:
KoyoteKustomWheels.com sells Installation Kits and, Lug Nuts and other Wheel Accessories. You can find them here.
If you don’t get an alignment with new tires, you may experience a rough ride and experience uneven tire wear earlier than normal—which can shorten your tires’ lifespan. While there are plenty of affordable tires out there, you don’t want to spend money more often than necessary. A wheel alignment can help you get more miles out of a new set of tires.
Why do wheel alignments matter?
- Having your wheels aligned—and getting that alignment checked yearly—can help you save money in a couple of ways. We’ve already explained how poorly aligned tires can wear out faster and need replacing more often. But get this! Misalignment can also decrease gas mileage by up to 10%. Therefore, a wheel alignment could help you conserve fuel and fill up less often. Plus, your new tires will last longer!
Do I need to get all four tires aligned at once??
- Yes, the majority of vehicles today (cars, small SUVs, and vans) require a four-wheel alignment. Some cars with solid rear axles can only have their front wheels aligned. But even in the case of two-wheel alignments, your technician can check the rear tires for damage that may compromise your car’s handling.
- If all four tires can be aligned, they should be. If they can’t, have your front wheels aligned, and the rear axle checked.
The illustration below shows some of the wear indicators of a bad alignment, out of balance wheels/tires or worn suspension parts.
WHAT IS “PLUS SIZING” YOUR WHEELS AND TIRES?
“Plus one” means that you increase the wheel diameter by one inch more than the original equipment (OE) wheel. “Plus two” means increasing the wheel diameter by two inches, and likewise with “plus three” increasing three inches, and so on. “Plus zero” just means the same wheel size as the OE but an increase in just the tire’s size.
For example: You have a 16×6.5 wheel and 205/55R-16 tire. A typical plus one (1″) size would be a 17×7 wheel and a 225/45R-17. Then, a plus two (2″) would be 18×8 and 235/40R-18.
18×8 wheels are actually a pretty popular upgrade and come in a large variety of available fitments.
When it comes to downsizing, “minus one” is a decrease in wheel size by one inch. It’s common to downsize in winter since this increases the tire sidewall height and may even lower the cost of smaller aftermarket wheels. This is helpful to know for your next winter tire changeover.
Plus size tires mean an increased wheel diameter, which may require a wider tire as well. Make sure that your new tires and wheels are of a compatible width and can maintain the original load carrying capacity. It’s helpful to familiarize yourself with some wheel size basics.
Sometimes, customers will confuse wheel offset and backspacing for plus sizing. However, plus sizing involves the measurements of the wheel and tire themselves, as opposed to how they sit on and relate to the wheel assembly.
PROS AND CONS OF PLUS SIZING
Like any vehicle modification, changing your OE tire size to an oversized tire comes with its pros and cons.
– Factory Size:
Pros: Best for drivers seeking well-rounded performance in a variety of driving situations.
Cons: Drives limited to factory size settings and features.
– Plus One (1″):
Pros: Better handling and cornering.
Cons: Increased road noise and decreased ride quality.
– Plus Two (2″):
Pros: Aesthetically pleasing and increased responsiveness.
Cons: Increased road noise and decreased ride quality.
– Plus Three (3″) and above:
Pros: Maximum style, better handling and responsiveness.
Cons: Significantly reduces suspension and ride quality. Potholes, curbs, snow and ice, and other hazards pose extra risk to vehicles rolling on these larger wheels.
IN CONCLUSION
Big tires and wheels offer several advantages, primarily focused on aesthetic appeal, enhanced handling, improved stability, and more responsive steering. These benefits combine to create a visually appealing and enjoyable driving experience.
Conversely, opting for bigger tires and wheels can have some drawbacks. It may lead to reduced ride comfort and increased noise levels. Smaller sidewalls on larger wheels are less effective at absorbing impacts, and the added weight of bigger wheels can negatively impact fuel economy, acceleration, and the tire’s ability to reduce road noise. Considering these factors is important when deciding on the appropriate tire and wheel size for your vehicle.
KoyoteKustomWheels.com offers many OE and “Plus size” wheels. You can find them here. If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call. We are happy to help 866-559-4335
How to make sure that rims will work with tires?
Width and diameter are the two factors that determine tire and rim compatibility. For diameter you’ll need to be sure that your tires and wheels are an exact match, e.g. a 215/65R17 tire will only fit on a 17″ diameter wheel.
There’s a bit more flexibility when it comes to wheel widths. Here is a guide for appropriately matching up tire and wheel widths:Matching tire width to wheel width depends on your purpose. For off-roading, the tire width is typically wider than the wheel. This creates more sidewall bulge to protect your wheel from rocks and keeps the tire from de-beading off the wheel when running low psi off-road. For example a tire size 35X12.50-20 is typically fitted on a 9.0″ wide wheel, therefore the tire width is 12.5″ with the wheel much narrower than the tread width. For sports cars, the general rule of thumb is to match the wheel width to the tread width in inches. For example a tire size 285/35-19 has a tread width of 9.9″. The ideal wheel width would be 10.0″ for that tire. The tread width can be found on the tire manufacturer’s websites under the specifications along with the minimum and maximum rim width range.
- If the tire does not fit the width of the wheel, the lip of the wheel will be exposed to damage by curbs, potholes or other potential road hazards as illustrated in the above image.
- If the tire is to wide for the wheel, the tire will have improper wear and a shorter life span as well.
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rim-sticks-out-past-tire.jpg?resize=429%2C640&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/rim-sticks-out-past-tire.jpg?resize=429%2C640&ssl=1)
example: tire to narrow for rim
If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call and we will happy to help 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
AIR PRESSURE (OVERLOADING AND UNDERINFLATION)
Are you familiar with overloading and underinflation? These two aspects significantly impact the health and performance of your tires. Both can have serious consequences, so it’s essential to be mindful of them to ensure your tires stay in good condition and perform optimally.
Overloading occurs when a vehicle or trailer’s weight exceeds its tires’ load-carrying capacity. In other words, overloading is when your tires are carrying more weight than they can safely handle.
Underinflation is when a tire’s air pressure is too low to support the weight of the vehicle.
Overloading and underinflated tires are the main causes of tire blowouts and failures.
EFFECTS OF UNDERINFLATION AND OVERLOADING
When tires are underinflated or overloaded, they lose their ability to grip driving surfaces effectively, resulting in compromised handling, vehicle instability, and reduced fuel economy. Furthermore, both overloading and underinflation cause excessive heat buildup in the tire’s sidewall and tread area, which can lead to severe issues. Continuous driving with an overloaded or underinflated tire exacerbates this heat buildup, increasing the risk of structural component breakdown and eventual tire failure. It’s crucial to address these factors promptly to ensure tire safety and avoid potential hazards on the road.
A tire professional should inspect a tire that has been driven for extended periods while overloaded and/or underinflated. The professional will inspect it for related damage or deformation and if any is found, it should be removed from service immediately and replaced.
When selecting replacement tires, it’s essential to ensure they meet or exceed the minimum load-carrying capacity requirements. Conversely, it is equally crucial not to overload your vehicle with more weight than your tires can safely support. Keeping within these limits helps maintain optimal tire performance and ensures a safer driving experience.
HOW TO AVOID UNDERINFLATION AND OVERLOADING
Check your tire’s air pressure regularly. We recommend checking your air pressure at least once a month. Always check before a long drive or trip.
Your tires’ maximum inflation and load-carrying capacity can be found on their sidewalls. Do note that this measure is the maximum inflation and not necessarily the recommended tire pressure for your vehicle. The recommended air pressure can almost always be found on the driver’s side door placard. You can also check the glove compartment or the owner’s manual.
KoyoteKustomWheels.com is here to help. Please give us a call if you have any questions 866-559-4335.
More details:
- We use the manufacturer part number to insure that you get what you ordered.
- The wheel style is generally the name of the wheel that the manufacturer assigned to a specific wheel.
- The wheel size also insures that you get the wheel you ordered.
- The offset is the how far the wheel sits under the car/truck or how far it sticks out.
- The Center Hub Bore needs to be correct to fit the vehicle you are installing the wheel on. If it does not fit properly, the wheel will not tighten down correctly and could cause a safety issue down the road.
- The Wheel Brand insures that you are getting the real thing and not a knock-off brand.
- The wheel Finish or Color tells you what color it is or what Finish it has. ie; Black, Silver, Machined, Black-Face with Machined Lip, etc…
- The PCD is the bolt pattern of the wheel. PCD = Pitch Circle Diameter. For example, a vehicle with a 5×120 PCD will take five wheel nuts or wheel bolts, with each spaced 120mm apart.
- The date is the when the wheel was manufacturer.
If you have any questions, feel free to give us a call and we will be glad to help 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
During rotation, each tire and wheel is removed from your vehicle and moved to a different position to ensure that all tires wear evenly and last longer. Tires should be rotated every six months or 6,000 to 8,000 miles.
1. PREFERRED TIRE ROTATION PATTERNS
Passenger & 4-Wheel and All Wheel Drive Light Truck
2. ALTERNATIVE TIRE ROTATION PATTERNS FOR ALL VEHICLES
Passenger & 4-Wheel and All Wheel Drive Light Truck
3. TWO-TIRE ROTATION PATTERN
Passenger & 4-Wheel and All Wheel Drive Light Truck
(Use only with the purchase of two tires or different tire sizes between front and rear axles)
4. ALTERNATE ROTATION FOR DIRECTIONAL TIRE WHEN DISMOUNTING
TIRE FROM WHEEL IS NOT PRACTICAL
Regular rotation is important for vehicles with dual rear wheels as well.
5. DUAL WHEEL ROTATION PATTERNS
6. FIVE-TIRE ROTATION PATTERN
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What is wheel (lug nut) torque?
- A rotational force given in foot-pounds (ft-lbs), wheel torque measures lug nut tightness. And it’s critical to safely installing your wheels. Every vehicle has its own torque requirements.
How do you check wheel torque?
- After hand-installing your lug nuts, tighten them to your vehicle’s torque specs using a torque wrench, a tool designed to measure rotational force. Follow the tightening and loosening pattern shown below. Be careful to tighten to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Tightening and loosening patterns:
Why are manufacturer specifications important?
- Lug nuts that are improperly or incorrectly tightened may cause the wheels to become loose or come off.
Why do we follow a specific pattern?
- Applying torque evenly across the wheel promotes wheel centering and evens the stress shared by all lug nuts and studs.
Installing new wheels or lug nuts on your vehicle?
- After installing wheels and properly torquing the lug nuts, they must be re-torqued to those values after driving approximately 50 to 100 miles on your new tires after the wheel/tire service. Both under and over tightening can be dangerous.
If your vehicle was built after 2007, it came equipped with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). This is a tire pressure monitoring system that displays warnings and alerts to indicate your tire air pressure might be low or require service.
What is Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)?
The TPMS will pop up on your vehicle dashboard whenever its recommended level of air pressure drops by 25% or more. The official TPMS symbol is a yellow exclamation mark inside a tire cross section. If you see this alert, immediately check your tire pressure or stop by one of our stores. We can examine your tires for damage, such as a puncture, to explain the air loss. If your alert is still displayed after setting the tire pressure, your TPMS may need to run through a “relearn” process or even require a TPMS sensor replacement.
A significant advantage to a TPMS is the ability to prevent underinflated tires from growing into larger problems. Also, this system can help you address changes in outside temperatures that cause fluctuations in tire pressure. Promptly addressing air pressure issues can increase fuel efficiency, extend tire life and contribute to your vehicle’s stability and safety.
TYPES OF TPMS – DIRECT OR INDIRECT
There are two types of TPMS: direct and indirect. Each type uses different mechanical set-ups and methods to monitor tire pressure and alert you when it is low. Direct TPMS measures air pressure through dedicated sensors attached to the wheel (rim). Indirect TPMS estimates low pressure based on tire rotation speed.
DIRECT TPMS
Direct TPMS systems have a variety of sensors that are each designed for your specific vehicle and trained to communicate with your onboard computer. The sensor is located inside the wheel and can be a variety of tire pressure sensor types, depending on your vehicle. Sometimes components can wear out and require TPMS sensors and rebuild kits.
INDIRECT TPMS
Indirect TPMS estimates an underinflated tire through wheel speed sensors used by the anti-lock brake system. These sensors measure the rotational speed of each tire. They can detect when one tire rotates faster than the others, meaning that the faster tire is low on pressure. You will see a highlighted alert on your dash if the system determines this to be the case.
Indirect TPMS was developed by automakers to comply with federal regulations while reducing vehicle costs. These systems are cheaper to produce because they utilize existing vehicle components however they have distinct disadvantages. An indirect TPMS cannot tell the driver which tire needs inflation. They also require calibration after any service including a tire change or air pressure adjustment to ensure system accuracy.
TPMS SENSOR BATTERIES
TPMS batteries last approximately 6-10 years, or 90-120,000 miles. Sensor replacement can become necessary due to tire sealant, corrosion from the elements and a weak or dead battery. The battery inside the TPMS is not removable. Therefore, when a TPMS battery dies, a new sensor is required. The TPMS sensor should be installed by a tire professional so that the system can be trained to recognize the new sensor.
If one battery has died, it is likely the others are very close to needing replacement too. It may be a good time to replace all of your sensors to eliminate any other TPMS related issues shortly down the line.
TPMS AND AIR PRESSURE CHECKS
Although TPMS provide valuable feedback in monitoring your tire pressure it should not replace monthly air pressure checks. Both types of TPMS only alert when the tire pressure drops below the recommended reading by 25%. This is a high threshold as tires that are under inflated by just 5% begin to suffer from decreased fuel economy and increased internal temperatures. These issues become more pronounced as underinflation increases so your tires can actually be underinflated without triggering a TPMS alert.
For this reason, you should never rely solely on TPMS to monitor your tire pressure. Always use a reliable gauge to manually check it each month. The TPMS functions as a warning that complements an existing safety routine and is not a first line of defense.
If you have any questions give us a call and we will be glad to help 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
UNDERSTANDING BOLT PATTERNS 101
When conducting research and shopping for wheels, you will likely encounter the term “bolt pattern.” You might naturally wonder: what exactly does bolt pattern mean? Don’t worry; we have all the information you need about wheels, including bolt patterns, wheel sizes, rim construction, and much more!
HOW DO I MEASURE A BOLT PATTERN?
Let’s start off with the basics. First, what’s a bolt pattern? Given in a two number system, a bolt pattern, also known as the lug pattern, is the measurement of an imaginary circle formed by the lug holes at the center of your wheel.
The first number indicates how many bolt holes the wheel has. The second number is the diameter of the imaginary circle around the holes. For example, a wheel with a 5-100mm bolt pattern has 5 lug holes equally spaced around a circle with a 100mm diameter.
Pretty straightforward, right?
Typically, larger vehicles have more lugs, while smaller vehicles have fewer. Found on passenger cars, SUVs and small pickups, rims with a five lug pattern are the most common.
And why does your wheel lug pattern matter to you? Knowing your bolt pattern is critical because it’s how your wheels are secured to your vehicle using lug nuts/lug bolts. Having the right bolt pattern ensures a safe fit, and nothing is more stylish than safety.
NOTE: Never try to install wheels on your vehicle that don’t match your OE bolt pattern, no matter how close in size they might seem to be. The wrong bolt pattern can prevent the wheel from mounting safely.
4-bolt patterns are measured in a straight line from center to center of two bolt holes sitting directly across from each other.
5-bolt patterns can be more difficult to measure since the bolt holes are not directly across from each other. You can estimate the measurement by using a straight line from the backside of one hole to the center of the third bolt hole. The accurate measurement is depicted here and can only be measured with a special tool called a bolt pattern gauge or by using a complex geometric equation.
6-bolt patterns are measured in a straight line from center to center of two bolt holes sitting directly across from each other.
8-bolt patterns are measured in a straight line from center to center of two bolt holes sitting directly across from each other.
WHAT IS A DUAL-DRILL BOLT PATTERN?
On your wheel-hunting journey, you may also come across the phrase dual drilled wheels, or dual-drill bolt pattern. In short, a dual drill wheel is a rim that is drilled with two sets of bolt holes.
With this additional set of holes, dual drill wheels can accept two different bolt patterns. This simple change enables a single wheel to fit a much wider range of vehicles!
For example, a wheel with a 5-100/114.3 millimeter bolt pattern has ten total bolt holes. It can accommodate vehicles with the 5-100 millimeter bolt pattern and the 5-114.3 millimeter bolt pattern.
EXAMPLES OF DIFFERENT BOLT PATTERNS
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With different types of vehicles comes a demand for different types of bolt patterns. Depending on the vehicle you drive, you might find your ride has a 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 lug bolt pattern. Whatever bolt pattern you’re looking for, we stock them all, with wheel offerings from all the best brands. While most bolt patterns are given in millimeters (mm), they’re often referred to by their standard variations. Check out our bolt pattern conversion chart below to see what your bolt pattern is in metric and standard measurements.
BOLT PATTERN CONVERSION CHART (MILLIMETER TO INCHES)
If you’re still unsure which bolt pattern you need, give us a call and we will help you figure it out 866-559-4335 or e-mail customerservice@koyotekustomwheels.com
WHAT ARE “STUD CLIPS” OR “HUB CLIPS” AND HOW TO REMOVE
Numerous American-built cars and trucks feature small retention clips attached to the base of the studs. These clips were originally designed to secure the brake rotor or brake drum to the hub during the vehicle’s assembly process at the factory. However, once the brake calipers and pads are installed, these clips serve no practical purpose. The primary mechanism for keeping the assembly together after the wheels are mounted and torqued down is the clamping force of the lug hardware.
When performing a brake job on a vehicle, these clips are typically discarded. Failure to remove them from the hubs can lead to significant vibration problems and potential damage to both the wheels and the vehicle when installing aftermarket wheels. Therefore, it’s crucial to take them off before installing your new wheels if your vehicle is equipped with such stud clips.
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/stud-clip-image-small.jpg?resize=250%2C207&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/koyotekustomwheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/stud-clip-image-small.jpg?resize=250%2C207&ssl=1)
also none as “push nut retainer clip”
Stud clips are exclusive to vehicles manufactured by GM, Ford, Chrysler, Saturn, and other domestic automakers. These clips have a thin, toothed washer appearance and are mounted around the base of the stud. Identifying them can be challenging if corrosion is present on the hub surface. They are typically present on one or two studs.
The problem arises when fitting aftermarket wheels since most of them lack a machined recess on the mounting pad to accommodate these clips. Placing the wheels on top of the clips prevents them from sitting flush against the hub surface. Although it may be possible to initially torque the lug nuts correctly, the studs’ hard steel clip will gradually embed itself into the soft aluminum wheel mounting pad.
This situation becomes evident when the vehicle undergoes forces from braking and turning, placing additional stress on the wheel-hub contact area where the stud clip is lodged. As the clip digs into the wheel pad, the gap between the wheel and hub disappears, causing the lug hardware to loosen within the wheel. Consequently, severe vibrations occur, especially during braking and turning. This process can cause damage to the wheel’s lug seats, the studs, and the hub, leading to the potential risk of losing the wheel while driving. It is essential to remove these stud clips before installing aftermarket wheels to ensure proper wheel attachment and safety.
- Check the pressure of all your tires monthly, including the spare. Even if you don’t see any damage, tires can lose up to 1 psi – pounds per square inch – every month. This can be accelerated by air leaks due to accidental puncture, leaks in the valve or valve cap, or by wheel malfunction.
- Check your tire pressure before making a long trip.
- For best results, check your tire pressure when tires are cool– before driving the car or if it has covered less than 3 miles at low speed.
- If the tire is hot, add 4-5 psi to the car manufacturer’s recommended pressure value (0.3 bar) or wait until it has cooled down, which is an average of three hours after parking the car.
- Never deflate a hot tire.
How do I check my tire pressure?
- Insert the pressure gauge into the valve stem on your tire.
- The gauge will “pop” out and show a number: that’s the psi number.
- The hissing sound is air escaping the tire. It shouldn’t affect pressure substantially, unless you hold down the air pressure gauge too long.
- Compare the measured psi to the recommended psi.
- If the psi is above the recommended number, let air out until they match. If it’s below, add air until it reaches the proper number.
Where can I find the recommended pressure for my tires?
- In the vehicle owner’s manual.
- On a sticker on the driver’s door or the gas tank door.
- Do not use the number on your tire’s sidewall, as this does not indicate the pressure needed in your tire.
About pressure gauges
- Be careful if you are using a pressure gauge provided in gas stations. The pressure gauge is often not reliable.
- Buy a high-quality pressure gauge and check its accuracy with a tire professional.
Getting it right is important
- Under-inflated or over-inflated tires can wear down faster than expected, have reduced grip, and can consume more fuel. It just takes a few minutes a month to help ensure your safety and the longevity of your tires.
(source: michelin.com)